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  • Morgan Porter

One Pant Pattern to Rule Them All

Updated: Jul 12, 2020

When I first embarked on a Me Made Wardrobe, I knew I needed to start with a staple: A great fitting pants pattern that I could alter for a number of projects.



Step 1: The Pattern

Whenever I would go shopping, I always dreaded trying on pants. Waist too big. Hips too small. Gaping Pockets. Not flattering. You see, I am a rather short lady with a set of hips. My solution was to draft a pair of pants that fit me perfectly. I started with a basic sloper that I drafted from The Costume Technicians Handbook by Rosemary Ingham. I used this book all through college, and still reference it in my professional life.



Step 2: The Mock-Up

Once I drafted my pattern, it was time to mock it up. I was really only looking to fit my hips. Because of this, I simply cut shorts out of some cotton twill I had in my stash (this was very early into quarantine and I had limited resources). The fit was great! I had some small adjustments in the curve between my waist and hips.


One thing I really wanted out of this pattern was a true high-waist style. I find that when I shop for high-waisted pants, the waistband always hits in a strange place. From the original draft, I added 2 inches total in the rise.


















Step 3: The Variations

This pants pattern turned out to be very versatile. Once I made all my corrections, I saved the pattern. From there, I would transfer it to separate paper so I could change the silhouette for whatever I felt like making that day. The three images below all come from that pant pattern!


The first variation I did was a pair of corduroy overalls. I am a great lover of corduroy. After discovering this fabric in my stash, I knew it was destined to be overalls. From my original draft, I added some pockets and pegged the leg for the "boyfriend jean" feel.



The second variation I am probably the most excited about. The pants are made with vintage wool that was gifted to me by a tailor that I work for. I had always wanted a pair of 1940's inspired pants and it was finally time. From my original pattern I added welt pockets, box pleats, and drew a straight line from my hips to the hem. You will be seeing me in these pants all fall and winter long.




The final variation I did was a pair of seersucker shorts. Once upon a time, I made a seersucker skirt and I had just enough fabric left over for these shorts. I basically took my mock-up pattern and added the same pockets from the overalls. Et voila! The perfect pair of summer shorts.



Final Thoughts

This pant pattern is here to stay! Half of the battle with finding a good pair of pants is finding a good fit around the waist and hips. Take some time, make a great pattern that fits your shape, and the world is your oyster.



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