One Pant Pattern to Rule Them All
Updated: Jul 12, 2020
When I first embarked on a Me Made Wardrobe, I knew I needed to start with a staple: A great fitting pants pattern that I could alter for a number of projects.
Step 1: The Pattern
Whenever I would go shopping, I always dreaded trying on pants. Waist too big. Hips too small. Gaping Pockets. Not flattering. You see, I am a rather short lady with a set of hips. My solution was to draft a pair of pants that fit me perfectly. I started with a basic sloper that I drafted from The Costume Technicians Handbook by Rosemary Ingham. I used this book all through college, and still reference it in my professional life.
Step 2: The Mock-Up
Once I drafted my pattern, it was time to mock it up. I was really only looking to fit my hips. Because of this, I simply cut shorts out of some cotton twill I had in my stash (this was very early into quarantine and I had limited resources). The fit was great! I had some small adjustments in the curve between my waist and hips.
One thing I really wanted out of this pattern was a true high-waist style. I find that when I shop for high-waisted pants, the waistband always hits in a strange place. From the original draft, I added 2 inches total in the rise.
Step 3: The Variations
This pants pattern turned out to be very versatile. Once I made all my corrections, I saved the pattern. From there, I would transfer it to separate paper so I could change the silhouette for whatever I felt like making that day. The three images below all come from that pant pattern!
The first variation I did was a pair of corduroy overalls. I am a great lover of corduroy. After discovering this fabric in my stash, I knew it was destined to be overalls. From my original draft, I added some pockets and pegged the leg for the "boyfriend jean" feel.
The second variation I am probably the most excited about. The pants are made with vintage wool that was gifted to me by a tailor that I work for. I had always wanted a pair of 1940's inspired pants and it was finally time. From my original pattern I added welt pockets, box pleats, and drew a straight line from my hips to the hem. You will be seeing me in these pants all fall and winter long.
The final variation I did was a pair of seersucker shorts. Once upon a time, I made a seersucker skirt and I had just enough fabric left over for these shorts. I basically took my mock-up pattern and added the same pockets from the overalls. Et voila! The perfect pair of summer shorts.
This pant pattern is here to stay! Half of the battle with finding a good pair of pants is finding a good fit around the waist and hips. Take some time, make a great pattern that fits your shape, and the world is your oyster.